eat drink one woman

From the New York Times' Green Issue:

Dashka Slater:

"Pork, lamb and poultry all have their impacts, but beef is undoubtedly the Hummer of the dinner plate."

Michael Pollan:

"Which brings us back to the 'why bother [going green]' question and how we might better answer it. The reasons not to bother are many and compelling, at least to the cheap-energy mind. But let me offer a few admittedly tentative reasons that we might put on the other side of the scale:

If you do bother, you will set an example for other people. If enough other people bother, each one influencing yet another in a chain reaction of behavioral change, markets for all manner of green products and alternative technologies will prosper and expand. (Just look at the market for hybrid cars.) Consciousness will be raised, perhaps even changed: new moral imperatives and new taboos might take root in the culture. Driving an S.U.V. or eating a 24-ounce steak or illuminating your McMansion like an airport runway at night might come to be regarded as outrages to human conscience. Not having things might become cooler than having them. And those who did change the way they live would acquire the moral standing to demand changes in behavior from others -- from other people, other corporations, even other countries."

****

Over Meet the Press this morning, La Doug and I were discussing the awful but not impossible scenario where McCain wins the White House over a fractured Democratic party. 

LA DOUG: I talked to Mark, who was in D.C. when we went from the Clinton administration to the Bush administration.  It went from a sushi town to a steakhouse town overnight.

[And we're back! -- Ed.]

Name: Trevor Dunn

Occupation: Musician

Borough: Brooklyn

Relationship status:  whipped

What did you eat today? 

Water,  maple granola with yogurt and a banana and Earl Grey tea, a slice of watermelon, fusilli with a homemade sauce of oil, onion, garlic, shiitake mushrooms and pecorino-romano cheese, a glass of Sicilian white wine, lapsang souchong tea, three olives, an Amy's organic country vegetable pot pie, some French red wine.
 
What do you never eat? 

Pineapple.  Can't even stand the smell of it.  I love most fruits and tropical ones especially.  Mango, papaya, kiwi, passion fruit....yum.  Pineapple, however, makes me want to vomit.  I also don't do oysters.  I admit this with a bit of shame because oyster culture seems sexy and high class to me.  I think it's a texture thing.  Again, I love most seafood and shellfish.  Clams, mussels, crab....yum.  Sushi.....yum.   Oysters taste like nothing and feel like someone else's phlegm in my throat.
 
Complete this sentence:  In my refrigerator, you can always find: 

Yogurt, guava juice, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, swiss chard, parsley.
 
What is your favorite kitchen item?

The Knife.
 
Where do you eat out most frequently?

Sushi Mura, Nono Kitchen, Little Dishes (all in the Slope)

World ends tomorrow.  What would you like for your last meal? 

An entire suckling pig, butternut squash ravioli with sage, chard sauteed with tons of garlic, a caprese salad with extra basil and olive oil from Sardinia, Concord grapes, the stinkiest  French cheese plate in the world, my mom's blackberry pie (she picks the berries herself),  the most expensive bottle of red wine in the world and limoncello.

Among the many reasons I love Trevor: he taught me to refer to the upright bass as "the doghouse" and the electric as "the pork chop". You can follow Trevor's gigs, learn the secret of the dead bass goon, or read some of his kick ass answers to fan questions at trevordunn.net.
 

This is a statue of Jao Mae Guan Im, known to the Chinese as Guan Yin which, according to this site, means "Who Contemplates the [Supplicating] Sound of the World".  She's apparently a bodhisattva, the female incarnation of Avalokitesvara, embodiment of compassion.

Growing up, I only knew her as "that statue of a woman in my aunts' houses."  Jao Mae Guan Im was not part of our standard issue Sunday school Buddhism.  First of all, she was a she, and for all the wonderful things Buddhism is, it is not a culture of the feminine divine.  Secondly, she was often distinctly Chinese-looking, standing among swirls of water or curling lotus petals in a sort of Venus on the half-shell tilt into the wind so her long robes and pretty beehive/Crystal Gayle hair combo were permanently aflutter.

Not everyone had shrines to her in their houses,  which made her seem that much more mystical to me.  Those who did worship her had to give up beef.  (This was the only thing I knew about her because, go figure, I only ever seem to remember details about food.) Depending on where you google, her followers believe her cruel father was reincarnated as a cow; since they don't want to eat him, they don't touch beef; the other story is that Guan Im was so compassionate that she was always a vegetarian, even in utero.

Interesting too that it's beef her believers give up, as the cow so often represents matriarchy.  Even the word cow (as opposed to bull or the neutral food term cattle) refers to the female -- how many other animals do we call primarily by the female gender's title?  Not sows, not ewes, not hens, not mares, not bitches.

Here's a fun page on cross-cultural cow lore. 

And in case you've forgotten why corned beef and pastrami got kosher clearance (except when applied in a Swiss-cheesed Reuben): it's the Leviticus-approved combo of cloven hoof + chews the cud.

CHARLIE: I don't want to go to this party.  I always wind up talking to the same girl.

ME: Well, is she cool?

CHARLIE: She's Korean, from Minnesota.  And she's a vegetarian.  It's so unattractive.

ME: ...

CHARLIE: The first two are interesting, but vegetarians...I guess it depends on your relationship with meat. 

I like the Rain Man-style review in the middle of this Pinkberry lawsuit article:

In a class-action lawsuit filed last year, Pinkberry -- which operates roughly 50 stores in California and New York -- was accused of misrepresenting its product as "frozen yogurt" and making bogus health claims, including that the dessert (which comes in three flavors: plain, which is very sour; green tea, which is chalky; and coffee, uncommonly delicious) was "all-natural."

Number of search results in Google news for downer cows: 462

Many of you may wonder, what happened to the Ganda we once knew and loved?  Has she been lobotomized?  Is she a frakking Cylon?  Has she been listening to too much NPR? 

The answers to those questions are: I'm right here, no, I wouldn't tell you if I were, and probably.

None of that can explain this sort of sea change I've been feeling lately. A confluence of events has conspired to unseat me  -- an election year/leap year, the tanking economy, the rising cost of food, turning 30, hormonal shifts, pollen counts, star alignments, tight underwear, god knows what else.  This hiatus has been an incubation period for a new experiment I've been thinking about for a while.  I know it's not going to make sense. It's sort of antithetical to everything this blog was always about.  It's probably going to alienate my core readership, if my total neglect over the last few months didn't already do that.  But it's an idea that I'm finally ready to get cracking on.

It's called The Abstain Project.  It's just what you might imagine.  Every so often, I will abstain from something, and I'll report on the effect of the abstinence.  I'll keep abstaining until I can't take it anymore.  It's really about setting up a parameter and seeing where I come up against obstacles, and finding out whether or not the obstacles are too much for me.  Like a rolling permaLent.

The point is not to become someone who abstains completely from all things; the point is more to see what I can live without and what I can't live without.  And to find out what life is like for someone who chooses, or has no choice but, to live without.

What really clinched it for me was probably this episode of This American Life, which chronicles the realities of modern pig farming.  (Extra bonus which made me never want to go to another wiener house -- the disgusting choads in Act Two who are probably the same dumbass mfs who think race is not an issue in this country anymore.)

I know, I know, I spent the last four years pushing reckless gluttony and guilt-free hedonism.  But I'm wondering if a different kind of pleasure can be gleaned from life, one that comes not through consumption but through abstinence.  And hey, if I try veganism and decide it's a crock, I can denounce it from the high horse of experience.  But what if it isn't?

I don't think I'll be able to give up all meat, but I might try to, just to see how long I can go without.  Dairy and eggs?  Soy and all soy products?  Certainly would be a challenge.  Alcohol?  Well, that probably wouldn't be too hard, but I don't think I'd enjoy it much.  Fruits and vegetables?  Now there's a real challenge.  Refined sugar?  Seems horrifying, but maybe it clears the head. Eating out? E-mail?  Cell phone?  Lots of possibilities.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.   First things first -- I'm going to cut out beef for now.  Too easy, I know, but I feel like I need to ease myself into the project if I'm going to sustain it.   I'm sure I'll fall off the wagon with certain things; I don't expect refined sugar to be off the table for more than 2 days.  But it should be a wacky little ride.  And at least now I'll have something to talk about.

Where have I been?  Well, out trying to actually have analog-style human contact.  And working out.  And going to the opera.  And, sadly, still eating a lot of Korean takeout on the subway.  I've been suffering from a bit of internet fatigue.  My job and its distance from my home have conspired to keep me out of the kitchen.  As much as I love food, I don't have the energy to chase obscure outer boro restos or cheflebrities anymore.

I started blogging in 2004 to try and get legit food writing gigs.  Once I got the legit food writing gigs, the dream started fraying.  I started eating crap in service of reviews I had to write.  I felt the need to quantify every food experience I had because I knew I'd be expected to voice an opinion.  Even my friends started worrying about what I'd think of their cooking. 

And then there were the odd relationships I began to have with the people in the tiny food world. You know how it goes: a P.R. rep invites you to an event where you will be leaned upon to write about whatever is being pushed.  You see all the familiar faces -- the food editors, the freelance writers, the bloggers, everyone smiling and chummy over their cocktails.  This is the village it takes to create the content people want.  I'm sure that the majority of those writers are able to navigate the murky waters with honor and dignity.  (And I mean it -- there are lots of writers whose opinions I trust precisely because they're not scenesters and they've got the cojones to say whatever they want to say -- Robert Sietsema, Regina Schrambling and Adam Platt are just a few.)  But without the protection of complete obscurity, I can't.  I'm ultimately someone who wants to make other people happy.  I may not have the stomach for this kind of work.  While I've never been a fan of Amanda Hesser's writing, these days I can't really participate in the schadenfreude surrounding the fallout of her now infamous Spice Market review.  I don't live with the illusion that writers are sequestered from the people or things they write about. 

Anyway, there are so many people blogging with the kind of stamina I used to have when I had a less rigorous schedule.  I can't keep up the pace, and I'm not going to try to anymore. I don't want to sell myself as an expert.  I want to participate in my life more and observe less.

I've put out my fair share of negative energy over the years -- after all, the tag line for this blog was "eating and complaining in nyc".  But I'm not interested in being a critic anymore.  And I'm realizing that a sister just has to blog for herself, or there won't be anything to talk about.

So for starters, I finally upgraded to Movable Type 4.1.  We'll see how this goes.  The old system was just weighing my build time down.  Of course, I really only half know what I'm doing with the tech stuff, so posting this post may entirely break my site. 

And I've gone with one of MT's stable out-of-the-box templates, which I will be tweaking some as the weeks go by and I have a little more time. Again, I'm going to go at my glacial pace because I want this to be fun again.

You Are What You Eat will return sporadically, whenever I can get people to participate.

And I'll still talk about my life through my food.  Maybe I just need spring to give birth to green things so I can get back into it.  But I may talk about music.  Or the election.  Or puppies, rainbows and unicorns.  I guess we'll see. 

Sasha Davies of Cheese by Hand has a thought-provoking piece in the spring 2008 issue of Diner Journal. She asks a question you've probably never even considered before (I hadn't): What happens to baby male goats? And how do you market an unfamiliar meat to a pleasure-seeking public awakening to the hidden costs of their favorite foods? I have to admit that I'd never heard of Diner Journal before I got this copy and now I'd like to be a subscriber. Aside from good looking recipes and a few funny stories, it's got pretty graphics and no ads. Me likey.

Scratch this one off the taco crawl list. Not that I want to eat tacos at a place where waitresses sell $2 dances to drunk locals.